Kat’s Window

Thailand’s tropical climate provides the perfect growing grounds for lush plants and stunning flowers. The Thai love for flora helps keep Bangkok a surprisingly green city and plant and flower vendors can be found at most any corner. The Thai countryside is guaranteed to take your breath . Nevertheless, even when surrounded by a tropical paradise, most Thais prefer to add even more plants and flowers to the scenery.

Thai people seem to have an amazing artistic knack for floral arrangements. The green thumb is a common gift also but is unfortunately not contagious. I only need to buy a plant, bring it home and then look at it before it suspiciously starts wilting.

Flowers, plants and trees also play a large part in the practice of Buddhism. The ‘Bodhi’ tree is the most sacred of symbols in Thailand because the Lord Buddha was sitting under a ‘Bodhi’ tree when he obtained enlightenment. Buddhist pilgrims brought many more of these trees into Thailand from India and temples are commonly built around these trees. (’Bodhi’ means enlightenment and a ‘Bodhi’ tree is in fact a fig tree.)

The Lord Buddha spent most of his life in natural surroundings and Buddhist teachings emphasise coexisting with nature, not conquering it. Forest monasteries can still be found throughout Thailand and traditionally monks were forest dwellers. Monastery grounds in cities still reflect their rural heritage and provide a wonderful refuge.

Money is placed on branches of trees as a way to gather funds for monks. Money trees are typically displayed for several days and anyone can walk up and attach their donation. They can be found in Buddhist processions or even just sitting on the sidewalk outside of someone’s home or business.

Floral offerings are used in a wide variety of occasions in Thailand and secular and religious events call for different floral arrangements. Most importantly, flowers are brought to Buddhist temples or shrines for religious holidays or merit-making visits. Food or money may also be incorporated into the floral arrangement. Lotus buds are one of the more common offerings at Buddhist shrines and are presented with three joss sticks and one candle.

Most Thai Buddhists put fresh flowers on their home altars or spirit houses either daily or according to the lunar calendar. A friend of mine recently ran into a unique issue while trying to rent a house. The owner stated that either he had to promise to tend to the home’s altar daily or else she would come to the house every day to do so. The rent was a secondary matter.

A while back I noticed some school girls collecting a variety of petals and leaves in front of their house. I didn’t think much of it until later that evening when they showed me two ‘Bai-sri’ arrangements they had (effortlessly) made to give to their teacher. These arrangements typically incorporate folded banana leaves, flowers, and offerings of food and are typically presented to teachers and elders as a symbol of thanks and to newborn babies as a symbol of luck. ‘Kratong’ arrangements are used in the famous yearly ‘Loy Kratong’ festival, which happened to coincide with Halloween this year. These arrangements usually contain a candle, three incense sticks and a small coin set among flowers. People light the candles and incense, make a wish, and send their kratong gently out into the water. (See back issues 06 November 2000 http://www.bangkokpost.net/kat/archives/061100a.html) A ‘Jad paan’ floral arrangement is round and bowl shaped and used in wedding ceremonies to catch holy water that has been poured over the married couples hands. Large floral wreathes abound at funerals, and flowers are also presented as birthday presents or at the opening ceremony of a new business.

Garlands (’Phuang malai’) abound in Thailand and are usually made of white jasmine buds with some marigolds, orchids or roses woven in to provide colour. They can often be seen hanging in taxicabs from the driver’s rearview mirror (to prevent accidents) and are often sold at busy traffic intersections by walking vendors.

The animistic nature of Thai Buddhism also leads to garlands being placed on ‘accident prone’ inanimate objects to appease the spirits inside. A red fire hydrant placed in the middle of a busy sidewalk in my neighbourhood has many pedestrians crash into it daily and therefore receives many garlands. So does a poorly placed electric pole that has caused several smashed bumpers and scratched doors.

Although I often have a difficult time keeping track of which floral arrangement is used for whom, where, and why, the visual and olfactory benefits of living in a country that is bursting with stunning floral arrangements and lush greenery is immense.

Keeping your eyes peeled for where people have placed garlands is an interesting thing to do while walking around. You might also be surprised at the number of flowers that go flying by attached to the backs of motorcycles. Visiting the flower market in Chinatown is another guaranteed eye-opener.

I set out to interview a friend of mine who works as a film director and was told, “There is someone much more interesting for you to talk to here.” It turned out to be a 48-year-old man named Pam who was more than happy to have a chat.

He is currently the director of a weekly Thai TV series called ‘My School.’ He explained, “This show documents very remote small schools in rural Thailand and tries to get funds to support these schools and funds for building new schools. Last year we managed to build five and this year we will build seven.” He also has worked in the past as assistant director for several Thai movies.

When asked about his salary, he explained, “I don’t get paid; I volunteer. I usually spend 8-10,000 baht (178-222 US Dollars) per trip on gas, food, and lodging. I make commercials for my income. My money depends on how many commercials I can make. It used to be much better. I used to make three commercials a month, now it is only one in two months. I make commercials about social issues, life in the countryside, pickup trucks, but not about makeup,” he explained.

Pam is a very active man. If he is not volunteering he is working. He was extremely vague about his personal finances. My hunch is that he is quite wealthy although you’d never guess it from looking at him.

Pam is the also the manager and part shareholder in a very large and new pub on Thanon Kasetnavamin Road in northeast Bangkok called ‘Bahn Tawan Daeng’ (Red Sky House). This is but one of several country saloon-style pubs in the ‘Tawan Daeng’ chain which are scattered throughout Bangkok and sharing the same logo.

He lives in Bangkok but also spends time volunteering for the Khao Yai National Forest and the Foundation for Lanna Artistes (which organizes grassroots theatre about social issues in the North.) He told me, “When working outside of Bangkok, I drive a Jeep Cherokee but in Bangkok I drive a Mazda MX-5. But I am not rich from my pub. I had money before. I can afford to eat different kinds of food. I am not in financial trouble. I can help other people financially but I don’t have a life of luxury. I feel rich in my heart when I can help people and build schools.”

When asked about his marital status he stated, “I almost got married three times but all of the women decided that I wasn’t good enough to get married to. I don’t have any children.” Pam was far more interested in talking about politics than talking about his personal life.

He was a student at Ramkamhaeng University and was involved in a theatre performance at Thammasat University on October 6, 1976 when the Thai army moved in and started shooting at the leftist students. lAs he ran away, he was shot in the leg and was later arrested for revolt???. He showed me bullet entry and exit scars on his thigh and illustrated that he cannot move his left foot up or down. For more information: http://www.bangkokpost.com/en/061001_Outlook/06Oct2001_out77.html

When questioned as to whether he considers himself a highly political person or not he explained, “I am interested in society but if you offered me a job in parliament, I would say ‘No! No! No!’”

His opinion about the current situation between the United States and Afghanistan is: “No wars are ever won. There is nothing good about war in general.” When asked what side he would choose at the moment he replied, “It is difficult to say or choose because every war is bad. Many people in Thailand see Afghanistan as being a small poor country and America a big rich country that can send missiles that cost millions of dollars. Thailand and other small countries in the region like Cambodia, Laos, and Burma could possibly see the situation as being unfair.”

When questioned about Thailand’s present government, he told me, “It looks like this government should be good for the population but there are many commercial interests involved and sometimes it looks fishy. Many people think that the present government benefits the rich people and not the poor. Now we have to close our pubs and entertainment venues at 2 a.m. and not 4 a.m. This means less income for the owners and staff. Having a new structure for Thai society could be good but it doesn’t have to be like Singapore in Thailand.”

When asked what he would do if hypothetically given 5,000, baht he stated, “I would give 2,500 baht as an education fund for my friend’s son. His father, Jaran Manopetch recently died. (A well-known singer in Thailand: http://www.bangkokpost.net/040901_News/04Sep2001_news06.html) The other 2,500 I would give towards the school that we are planning to build in Isaan.”

While you are out strolling through the city of angel’s you will inevitably get stuck behind a bus that will dutifully spew black fumes into your face. Most people start holding their hands over their mouths in the futile effort to improve the situation. I usually wish for an abstractly long snorkel that will reach high above the black clouds. Perhaps I should even invent one. Truth said, no matter how much you love Bangkok, sometimes residents and tourist alike just really need to escape.

Weekend getaways into the countryside are not always possible but there is a small island of refuge and peace waiting for you and it’s not far away. Sitting in the middle of the Chao Phraya River a mere 25 kilometres north of central Bangkok is the small island of Ko Kret. Fresher air, auditory relief and serene scenery are waiting.

Tranquility and low-rise buildings give Ko Kret a very down-to-earth, slow-paced feeling and makes it a great place to chill out for an afternoon. This island is worlds apart from the metropolis lurking a bit south of it.

One of the best things about Ko Kret is that cars are not allowed on the island. Instead bikes, motorcycles and pedestrians weave their way through narrow walkways making for some tight squeezes, especially on weekends. If you hear a bicycle bell ring or the hum of an engine, step aside quickly.

There are about 7,000 residents living on Ko Kret, many of whom are of Mon descent. Mon people are of Indo-Burmese origin and their cultural influence on the island is still significant. They first came to Ko Kret during King Taksin’s reign (1768-1782). Ko Kret represents one of Thailand’s oldest Mon settlements and their language and traditions can still be seen throughout the island.

Ko Kret is famous for producing beautiful and ancient-style terracotta Mon pottery, jars and flowerpots. Kilns and artisans at work are scattered along the pathways. Feel free to walk in and check out the action or visit the island’s pottery museum. Looking at the banks of the island will not only reveal an overwhelming amount of garbage, but also many a broken terracotta pot that has been tossed into the river.

Ko Kret is host to several spectacular Mon-style temples and pagodas. In addition to Wat So Thong Thong and Wat Phal Lom, another well-known temple is Wat Paramaiyikawat (also called Wat Mon). This temple still keeps Buddhist scripture in the Mon language and is host to a large reclining Buddha, gorgeous mural paintings (recently restored), and a sinking, slightly-lopsided pagoda on the northeast tip of the island.

The island boasts an enormous number of food stalls and restaurants. Views of the river can be enjoyed while having a cool drink and enjoying a nice river breeze. There is a man who has recently set up an adorable bamboo-style caf? and has decided to sell tea only. I’m not sure about his business sense, but his shop is huggable.

Ko Kret is a popular shopping destination for locals and is becoming increasingly popular with tourists. From kitsch to kitchenware to earthenware, market stalls and small shops abound and prices are reasonable. Truth said, I was trying to keep Ko Kret a secret for myself but it seems to be too late. I would recommend visiting during the week if you want to escape the crowds. Many of the shops are closed but the island becomes infinitely quieter and even more relaxing.

My favourite place to visit on Ko Kret is the reclining Buddha at Wat Paramaiyikawat. The Buddha image inside is particularly stunning, as are the intricate details of the windows, doors and ceiling. You can also choose to have your fortune told by taking the wooden cup in front of the altar and shaking it until one of about 30 bamboo sticks falls out. Each stick has a number on it with a corresponding fortune sheet at the entrance to the temple. My last fortune told me, “Bad omen foreseen. Refill oil to the lamps at this place and unfavourable situation will be alleviated.” Well, I couldn’t find any oil lamps to refill and am hoping for the best.

To get to Ko Kret you can drive to the town of Pakret in Nonthanburi province and then take the river ferry across at Wat Sanam Nua (for a whopping 2 baht each way.) Another option is to take Laem Thong’s boat service at the Nonthaburi Pier up to Ko Kret or hire a long tail boat for a faster and bumpier ride all the way up the river. Whether you are interested in shopping, eating, learning about an ancient culture, chilling out or a taking a nice stroll, Ko Kret is a wonderful escape. You might even spot me there if you are lucky.

Last week’s edition continues (See back issues: 29 Oct http://bangkokpost.net/kat/archives/291001a.html) and finds the author sitting and sweating in the bleachers going through the mass confusion and discomfort of having survived almost five hours at a rooster fight.

A woman near the restroom was crying because her rooster got the stuffing kicked out of it. The smell of blood was filling the air. I watched a ten-year old boy with the eyes of a 50-year-old fight his rooster. Other bored children were taking drinking straws from the vending counter and weaving them together. A referee fell asleep in the ring. The spectator in the front row directly behind him followed suit. The metal gates at the entrance were locked (to keep people from running away from their debts, I suppose.)

Most other faces showed joy, anger, frustration, delight, devastation and concentration to the highest extent I have ever seen. By late afternoon there were at least 300 people in attendance. A few of them were obviously very wealthy but the rest were the truck drivers, the rice farmers and the manual labourers of Thailand. Most of the men were covered with tattoos and looked rough and tumble. Probably not able to take a nice vacation up country or even afford the gas to do so. This was their version of cheap fun after a hard week of work.

As the day got longer, losses got higher, and beer and whisky bottles started opening. Tempers flared, money changed hands at a faster rate and a tense energy filled the barn. This was not smiling Thailand. This was business.

I watched the roosters being nursed at their camps. They were given an herbal steam bath with lemongrass to open their airways and improve circulation (the only nice smell generated the entire day.) If their heads were bleeding (what is about to be said is really gross, be warned), the rooster doctor of the camp would stick the rooster’s head in his mouth and suck the blood out of it before sewing up wound. Feathers were reattached for increased protection using candle wax and fancy sewing methods. The roosters remained incredibly calm through all of this. Eventually names were called over the load speaker and the birds went off to fight again.

I tried to figure out rooster scoring methods but could not. I later learned that if a rooster runs away three times, refuses to keep fighting, bleeds continuously, has a broken bone, or loses sight in an eye, he is declared the loser. There also seemed to be points given for kicks that were well delivered.

My head started to swirl and feel like a Salvador Dali painting involving fighting roosters. The morals and merits of rooster fighting blurred. In addition to the chaos erupting around me, so was my brain.

Questions: Whom should I condemn or sympathize with? The people? The roosters? Myself for being there? The gambling? Thoughts: Rooster fighting is a long tradition. Roosters have a better life in Thailand than most dogs. They are investments and pets. Chart Chai is one of the nicest most sensitive guys I know. And here he was, getting ready to fight his beloved bird. And I, the person that breaks into tears at live animal markets, had come with him.

At last, Rodney, Chart Chai’s bird, was called to the ring. Assuming that I was rich, that Rodney belonged to me, and that I must have a really expensive fighting machine, Rodney got to fight in the big stadium. I guess Rodney considered this an honour, it being his first fight and all.

Amazingly Rodney lasted two solid rounds but it was obvious that he was going to lose. Watching Rodney get his butt kicked was a dramatic experience. Unlike the first match with Heavy’s rooster that was fast and not gory, this fight got very ugly and bloody. The roosters perpetually attacked each others heads, eyes, wings, and kicked each other in the head every chance they got. They both were stubborn. I was wishing Rodney would smarten up and run away.

The third round started and Chart Chai decided just to call it off rather than have Rodney get severely pummeled, which was an excellent idea as I was thinking of stepping in the ring to rescue him anyways (which would have been a bad move, I am sure.) I am just glad that Rodney (and I) made it through the day.

Rooster fights are strange events, but human nature is even more so. I watched the battles with a mixture of fascination and horror. Most people slow down at traffic accidents hoping to catch a glimpse of something grotesque. Reporting on the ‘pristine beaches of Pattaya’ would certainly have been easier than trying to explain this event, but I am glad I went even though it made my head spin.