Kat’s Window

According to the Tourism authority of Thailand, Thailand hosted 10,132,509 tourists in the year 2001. Their average length of stay was 8.66 days and 49 percent were between the ages of 25 and 44. Some of the better-known destinations in Thailand include Bangkok, Chiang Mai, Ko Samui, Krabi, Pattaya and Phuket. The presence of tourists is evident at most any corner in these towns, and Thailand transforms its menus, entertainment venues, spoken language and vending wares to suit their tastes and needs. Thailand is a friendly and hospitable place. If you show up as a tourist with money in your pocket, hospitality tends to increase.

‘Tourist’ is not always a positive word. In Thailand, many expatriates look down on tourists as being somehow ‘inferior’ to themselves, preferring to hang out in expatriate or Thai circles and typically avoiding listening to travelogues of those passing through. Thais probably (and justly so) secretly scratch their heads wondering about what both groups are doing in Thailand. Often found pointing their feet in the wrong direction, sporting the most bizarre of fashion statements, showing public affection between members of the opposite sexes, venting anger when things don’t go their way and walking way too fast in the tropical heat while exclaiming, “Gosh, it is just too hot!” naturally causes some confusion for the locals, but they manage to take it all in while smiling.

Why do people visit Thailand? The most popular belief is that it is because of the beaches, shopping and women. I recently spent the afternoon walking around asking various tourists questions regarding their visit to the ‘Land of Smiles.’ The answers were delightfully surprising! Rather than list comments and nationalities individually, I’ll sum up by saying those I talked with ranged in age from 24-66 and came from Holland, New Zealand, Ireland, England, America, and Sweden, and answers came from males and females.

To the question, “What made you decide to come to Thailand?” the answers were as follows: “I heard it is cheap and beautiful.” “It’s a part of my trip around the world for one year. I chose destinations that seemed as different from my native country as possible.” “For the climate and the sunshine.” “A friend of mine came here a few years ago and told me that I should really come here and consider it as a possible place to retire.” “Originally it was just a stopover for me on the way to England. I was supposed to stay for only four days, but fifteen months later I am still here.” “I had enough of my job. I decided to rent out the house I own and live in Thailand.” “I came here to get away from the western world and its values.” “I’ve come here to find a wife.” “I’ve come here to hang out, take a step back from the world and relax.” “I am an alcoholic and I thought coming here might help me drink less.” “Thailand is cheap, it is easy, and there is no conflict or hassle when you walk around.”

Things that these visitors want to achieve while in Thailand include taking cooking classes, exploring markets, watching Thai boxing, shopping for clothing, trekking, exploring national parks, taking drumming classes, learning Kung Fu, buying things to sell at a business back home, exploring Thailand itself and taking advantage of cheap medical care.

When questioned about what they thought about Thai people, everyone was more than positive. The sentences, “They are fantastic!” and “Thai people have fun, no matter what they do!” summarize nicely the feelings that were expressed by all but some negative experiences or impressions were also voiced. “It is too westernized here!” “It is much dirtier than I ever expected!” “Thais are very mellow, but that can also be a disadvantage.” “Infrastructure can be lacking.” “Thais are nice but they always want to sell you something!” were some complaints.

When asked what they would do if hypothetically given 5,000 baht (US$ 120) answers varied. “Get some nice shirts and suits made and send them home.” “Give it to an orphanage or to someone who really needs it.” “Use the money to travel some more.” “Buy a drum.” “Spend it on my every day life, like for food and a place to stay.”

Although I thought spending the day talking to tourists would be an exercise of long boring stories and repetitive answers, I could not have been more incorrect. Although tourists tend to get lumped into one big category, the reasons why people come to Thailand and the reasons why they choose to stay are as varied and interesting as the people answering the questions. And all those incorrect signs in English throughout Thailand that are guaranteed to provide a good belly laugh would be missing if not for the millions of foreign visitors passing through each year.

Need to carry some dirt? Catch a fish? Transport bundles of food or clothing? Store some household items? Fetch some water? Gather leaves after raking? Bring some lunch with you to work? Transport a pig to the market? You don’t need a shovel, fishing pole, suitcase, trunk, bucket, lunchbox, plastic bag, or cage. All you need is a basket.

Baskets come in every shape and size in Thailand; in the course of a day you might end up buying your lunch from baskets being carried on the ends of poles by a street vendor. These baskets are called ‘gradjad mon’ in Thai while the whole carrying device is called ‘harp’. Or you might wind up watching someone empty their fish trap (called ’sum pla’ in Thai) in the shallow areas of a flooded rice field.

Baskets have existed in Thailand since the Neolithic era. Evidence of their long and enduring presence can be witnessed today in cave paintings, through archaeological finds, in mural paintings, and on most street corners. Unlike in the West, where baskets usually sit passively as decorative items and are occasionally used for picnics and as dirty clothes receptors, baskets made from natural materials in Thailand are used in a host of daily chores despite the invasion of plastic.

Cylindrical baskets were a natural evolvement from early weaving methods when natural materials were woven into flat sheets and used as house walls, floors and sleeping mats. Bamboo is by far the most commonly found material used in basketry and weaving, but grasses, ferns, rattan, palms, wood and reeds are all incorporated into sometimes simple and sometimes spectacular patterns and forms which are typically geometric in shape. Once almost entirely utilitarian in nature, modern times have given birth to baskets in the form of jewelry boxes, pocketbooks, and lampshades, to name a few.

Given the importance of baskets, one can imagine the vast amount of styles and functions they serve throughout the country. Common utilitarian baskets in Thailand illustrate that necessity is indeed the mother of invention. They include rice baskets (used not only to transport rice but to measure it), seed containers (lacquered baskets that keep contents safe from water and insects) water baskets (made out of palm leaves and typically fitted with a handle), glutinous rice baskets (used to store ’sticky rice’ and often carried as lunch pails, especially in northeastern Thailand), and perhaps the most famous of Thai baskets, the fish trap: a bomb-shaped, three-foot long basket that allows fish to swim in, but not out.

Thailand has diverse climates. Therefore each region has its own distinctive and celebrated style of basketry. This is often determined by the raw materials available in that area and, of course, the function the basket is supposed to serve. Before visiting a specific area of Thailand, a bit of research will let you find out what kind of basketry the area is famous for. Basketry is also heavily promoted by the tourist industry in Thailand. There is a host of tour operators that will be more than happy to take you to local production shops and vending area.

Like most crafts in Thailand, basket weaving was a skill that was passed down from generation to generation. However, due to modern times, a taste for things from the West, and availability of cheap plastic goods, traditional knowledge of the craft has begun to fade. However, it is still possible to wander around small villages and see basket weaving in progress. Thanks to the efforts of Her Majesty Queen Sirikit, many rural villagers continue to earn supplemental income through their weaving skills when they are not out in the rice fields.

Through her programme, ‘Foundation for the Promotion of Supplementary Occupations and Related Techniques, popularly known as SUPPORT, a revival of traditional skills has taken place and basketry as a means of increasing rural income has become a reality. In fact, baskets are enjoying somewhat of a renaissance and are no longer viewed as something used by ‘the common folk.’ Sophisticated basket artistry can be found at the chicest of shops, while their rustic counterparts stand as firmly as ever at local markets. Baskets, they’ve been around forever and they are here to stay. Plastic bags and boxes simply can’t hold a candle to them.

Spending time watching for different baskets pass you by is yet another fun way to pass the time in Thailand. Guessing what their probable function is can be a challenge. I once saw a wall filled with long and narrow baskets from a distance and thought they were car mufflers. And will never forget the day I decided I wanted to cook glutinous rice for dinner. Explaining my plan to a neighbour and my need to borrow the necessary tools, I was handed a wide mouthed funnel shaped basket and a big pot with a smile. Naturally, the next few minutes consisted of mass confusion of my part.

Once upon a time I was teaching English to two Turkish girls back in the United States. Whenever they had to take an examination, I’d cross my fingers and tell them, “Good luck!” They always gave me an alarmed look and eventually gathered the courage to announce, “That means something really bad about your mother if you do that in Turkey!” It can be easy to make the largest of cultural blunders just by acting naturally within a different society and, yes, I’m still making them in Thailand.

The basic rules to behaving politely in Thailand are easy to find and also easy to pick up on through observation once you are in the country. Remove your shoes before entering a house or temple. Dress modestly. Never say anything critical regarding the monarchy or Buddhism. Don’t touch people on the head. Sounds pretty easy, right? There are other conventions followed in Thailand that are not so highly advertised or obvious even to the seasoned observer.

Let’s say that you are in Thailand and decide to hitchhike around the country. First off, this is a very uncommon practice in Thailand. Second, even if hitchhiking were commonplace in Thailand, if you were to go to the side of the road and stand with your thumb sticking up in the standard hitchhiker’s stance, no one would pick you up. Why? Because sticking your thumb up at someone is a way to show that you are angry with him or her. The correct way to beckon someone towards you, be it a waitress, friend or passing car, is to extend your arm and hand outwards with your palm facing downwards and flutter your fingers in a ‘come-hither’ action. On a side note, locking pinky fingers together with another person is a gesture of friendship and apology.

Another don’t in Thailand is to show public affection, particularly between opposite sexes. Although Thais in general tend to accept whatever sexuality a person chooses to express, women and men kissing, holding hands or putting arms around each other in public is frowned upon. It is entirely common, however, to see friends of the same sex, be it male or female, holding hands or locking arms around each other’s shoulders as they take a stroll. Dating rituals in Thailand have innocent qualities to them also.

Passing things with your left hand is another no-no. This is due to the fact that the left hand is used for matters of personal hygiene in a country where bowls of water are found in bathrooms, not toilet paper. Waving one’s hands around while speaking, speaking with arms crossed or pointing at someone with one finger are also considered to be aggressive and therefore rude gestures.

Wearing the colour black can be another big don’t as it is a colour associated with death. Modern times have seen this colour grow in popularity and acceptance, but if you are invited to a religious ceremony or wedding and show up in a gothic-looking outfit you will be viewed as bestowing bad luck on the event.

Elders are always given respect in Thailand as are other people is positions of authority. This means not arguing too strenuously with a market vendor who is clearly much older than you. It also means giving up your seat on the bus, offering to carry an elder’s bags and behaving more modestly when in the presence of your seniors.

Eating in Thailand carries with it other dos and don’ts. If rice is served with the meal, it is a polite gesture to first take a bite of rice (using your spoon to eat with, not your fork) as a sign that recognises rice as being the most important part of the meal. Over-ordering food at a restaurant and over-serving at home is a gesture that shows generosity. You should not finish all the food that is on the platters or your hosts will bring or order more.

Because Thais believe that the head is the most sacred part of the body because it is inhibited by the ‘khwan’ or spiritual force of life, standing over someone older or wiser is a no-no. As a sign of respect, one should lower one’s head when walking in front of someone else.

Asking someone from another culture how they beckon for a bill, count to ten on their fingers or gesture hello and goodbye can provide a few chuckles and useful knowledge, especially if you should ever find yourself in his or her country. Thailand’s moral code is much more conservative than that of the West. Because non-confrontation is a cultural cornerstone, Thais are not likely to give any sign when a visitor makes a cultural blunder. This can make figuring out a cultural blunder more difficult, but all efforts towards etiquette are enormously appreciated.

Houses come in all sizes, shapes and price ranges in Thailand. A western-style house with all the amenities can be tracked down with relative ease but traditional Thai houses are by far the most common structures. They can range from the simple and small to the large and ornate and always boast a sense of practicality.

Thai houses can consist of a single-story building or of several single-story interlocking buildings. Depending on the region, they can be built out of palm, bamboo, wood or brick. Architectural styles differ throughout the country but most houses are elevated on posts to avoid flooding and also to provide usable space below the building.

Traditional Thai houses have an open and free-flowing sense of space. Sometimes a house can consist of one very large room with the only separate areas being the bathroom and the kitchen. Housing reflects the income of its residents and in Thailand there is no shortage of small, sparsely-furnished and simplistic homes. Most homes in Thailand don’t have refrigerators. Instead, plastic dome-shaped, perforated covers are placed over food to keep the flies away. Low round tables or metal trays are used to serve food. Interior design receives little, if any, attention.

Traditional houses are typically designed to reflect the sense of community that neighbours and families share, fences being optional at best. Groups of homes usually sit nestled together and pets, farm animals and children can be found meandering into other people’s yards wherever they wish. Doorbells are unheard of. If one wants to see if someone is home (and he or she hasn’t already heard the news by word of mouth), simply checking outside the front door to see whose shoes are there is the easiest method as all Thais remove their footwear before entering a residence.

Nature prevails in a traditional Thai house. They do not boast mosquito screens or glass windows and insects flow as freely in and out as do the neighbours. Tropical heat is combated with ceiling and floor fans at times but the most important ally of all is shade. As many trees and greenery as possible are left around the house and untamed gardens are commonplace. Wooden shutters are used to keep out the rain. If an unwanted insect or reptile happens to wander in, it will not usually be killed but rather caught released outside (even if it is poisonous) as killing other living creatures is against Buddhist morals.

Pictures of the Royal Family, a Buddhist altar and other religious symbols are commonly found inside homes and are always placed in an elevated position as safe from the potential of pointing feet as possible. Bamboo mats and/or pillows are placed on the ground and used as the seating area. Bamboo mats can also double as beds at night time, but pillows used to sit on would never be used to support one’s head during sleep as the head is the highest part of the human body and is treated with respect.

Thais generally do not like to sleep alone. This is typically due to a fear of ghosts, a sense of community and/or lack of space. Three or even seven people sleeping together in one room is more than common. But there are certain aspects to it that might be overlooked by an outsider. First, no Thai would ever sleep with another person’s feet pointing at their head. This means that if six people are going to share a room, all heads will be found lined up against the same wall. Second, the direction that one’s head faces in while sleeping is also important. According to those I have talked to regarding this subject, the first choice is East with one’s head facing the sunrise. The second choice is North, north being seen as a higher position than South. The absolute last choice is West, as this is a direction associated with death. Chinese cemeteries place people’s heads in this direction so that they may enjoy looking at the sun when it rises. I have nestled down to sleep in Thai houses only to be told by alarmed voices, “You can’t sleep with your head facing that way!”

Probably the most fascinating aspect of Thai housing to a western eye is the sheer number of relatives often found living under one roof. There is no dire need for privacy or marked individual territory so commonly expressed in the West. Spending time inside traditional Thai houses can provide enormous insight into the country and culture.

P.S. ‘The Ancient City,’ located in Samut Prakan just south of Bangkok, is a magnificent historical park that covers 320 acres and contains traditional Thai houses, palace halls, temples, stupas and historical buildings and is well worth a visit if you ask me.