Kat’s Window

‘Bei Pai Mai’ means ‘Do you want to go to Pai?’ So what is Pai, you might wonder? Answer: A small town in Mae Hong Song province in Northern Thailand and one of the more unique and beautiful places yours truly has stumbled across. At first I was a bit sceptical of heading to Pai as the town’s stunning landscape, rolling hills, and alternative atmosphere have become less and less of a secret over the last few years. It is a gathering spot for many of Thailand’s backpackers who have scheduled a generous amount of travel time and almost invariably seem to have arrived in Thailand via India or Nepal.

Pai has an artistic and artsy flair to it. Besides being a favoured spot for trekkers, nature lovers and bird watchers, the serenity and beauty of Pai has inspired some of Thailand’s own artists, freethinkers and musicians to take up residence there. Pai is a quirky little town. Quite a few locals and visitors stroll the street sporting tattoos, dreadlocks, facial piercings and political slogans. The local rice farmers and market workers no longer take a second glance at the most unique and eccentric looking of individuals. This is indeed part of the reason why people come to Pai in the first place. In Pai, it seems most anything goes and everyone manages to find an activity and/or place to suit his or her budget and personal interests.

Whether it be sampling herbal rice wines boasting healing properties at a small pub called ‘50 Satang,’ eating French food at Chez Swan restaurant, sipping coffee in a local coffee shop, trail blazing with a guide to visit remote hill-tribe villages, rocking out in the Be Bop bar to the roaring sounds of rhythm and blues and 60’s rock, taking a meditation, yoga or massage course, wandering the local fresh produce market, exploring temples, taking a ride on an elephant, chilling out in a hammock on the front porch of your jungle bungalow, delving into the rather impressive nightlife scene, snacking on organic food, taking in a waterfall or two, getting a tattoo, soaking in a hot spring, exploring some small jewelry shops, taking a cooking class, renting a motor bike and taking off into the hills, or finding some absolute peace and quiet, you are certain not to be bored in Pai.

Diversity and beauty are two words that spring to mind when thinking about Pai, but regardless of where the visitors come from that have chosen to spend some time among the 8,000 or so residents that live there year round, the one thing that most have in common is the fact that they have had to endure the winding, gut-wrenching road that leads to Pai from north of Chiang Mai. The road twists and climbs and swerves and swoops all the way into town, leaving even those who have never been carsick feeling a bit green. The 132-kilometre journey takes four hours and everyone is more than glad to feel his or her feet hit land by the time it is over.

Another common experience many visitors to Pai may have shared is the unfortunate event of a motorcycle accident. As the ever-popular Honda Dream moped can be rented for 150 baht (USD$3.75) a day, it is a popular form of transportation. Unfortunately, the steep, winding and sometimes slippery hills of the area leave many people severely scraped up and/or with broken limbs.

Pai is picturesque in every sense of the word. The surrounding scenery is so stunning it is like watching a live series of National Geographic photographs. Besides relying on tourism for income, Pai is an agricultural town that produces rice, garlic, cotton, peanuts and fruit; your breath will be taken away by the scenery these fields provide, especially if you head out of town. The diversity of Pai is also reflected in the local population. Along with the local Thai population, Shan, Lisu, Lahu, Karen, Muslim, Thai-Chinese and foreign residents can all be found.

Although Pai is a small town and has a very rural and mellow feel to it, most any facility you can think of is available. I visited Pai during the low season for tourism (due to the rain). Given the amount of people visiting that were undeterred by the weather, I would be hesitant to return during the high season. Nevertheless, I would definitely go back to Pai. Another thing this town reminded me of is just how beautiful and diverse the Thai countryside is. If you can’t make it to Pai, how about choosing to take a detour, drive on a lesser-known road, or check out a small town nestled in the middle of nowhere just for kicks? The scenery along the way is most likely to be more than worth it.

Rice is the cornerstone of most any meal in Thailand. Before I came to this country, I was not a big fan of rice nor did I eat much of it. Rice sat in my cupboard and usually went stale. I knew next to nothing about rice varieties either, but cooking rice became a must in Thailand. Although I now know that white rice, brown rice, parboiled rice, glutinous rice and fragrant rice are the most common varieties found here, while out shopping and finding myself faced with dozens of bags to choose from, I usually scratch my head in confusion and select the bag with the nicest looking logo.

A frying pan may be the staple item of a Western kitchen, but in Thailand it is the rice cooker. These clever gadgets ensure that your rice is always perfectly cooked and will keep it warm throughout the day if you wish. Many a visitor to Thailand recognizes the practicality of these devices and returns home with one tucked under his or her arm. I was here for about five days before I’d bought one of my own.

Rice is an impressively versatile food and is prepared in a variety of ways simply too long to list. Rice makes its way into any meal, including breakfast. It is eaten plain, mixed with other foods, boiled, steamed, baked or stir-fried. It is eaten wet and sticky, light, fluffy and dry or watered down in a soup. Rice and fruit are commonly eaten for dessert, rice flour is made into cakes, bread, cookies and noodles, and let’s not forget rice wine!

Rice is the most important commodity in Thailand. This is reflected not only in the eating habits of the nation, but also in the landscape of the countryside. In the rice season of 1999-2000, it was reported that Thailand planted about 59.1 million rais (9.0 million hectares) of rice to produce 22.5 million tons of paddy, yielding roughly 15 millions tons of milled rice. Of this, approximately 9 million tons were used for local consumption, leaving about 6 million tons available for export. Rice represents 55-80% of total calories consumed by the population and the annual per capita consumption of milled rice in Thailand is estimated at an impressive 128 kg.

Rice is not only eaten but also finds a number of other uses. Rice straw is made into baskets, hats, sandals, toys, and handicrafts and also woven into roofing material. Rice hulls are used as fertilizer and fuel and also added into building materials such as cement, bricks and blocks.

A tremendous amount of Thai culture concerns itself with rice and according to archaeological finds and plant remains, rice could have been cultivated in Thailand as early as 10,000 B.C. Folk songs, dances and festivals celebrate this important crop throughout the year. Artwork often illustrates villagers in the process of ploughing, sewing, harvesting or dehusking rice. Rice even has its own goddess in Thailand; her name is Mai Pho Sop. She is believed to live in grains of rice and is typically pictured holding rice stalks in one hand and a bag of seeds in the other. It is believed that Mai Pho Sop was born from rice, falls pregnant when the rice flowers, and then gives birth to rice. Rituals and gestures take place to ensure her well-being throughout the year, including offerings of food and shelter to her during the dry season.

Another event focusing on rice is The Royal Ploughing Ceremony, held at Sanam Luang at the start of the rice-planting season in May. This event is presided over with elaborate royal rites and features oxen at work, Brahmin priests sowing seeds, and the oxen divining the success of the next year’s harvest by auspiciously selecting from several types of food offered to them.

Although modernization of the agricultural industry has taken place, one can still see farmer and water buffalo working together in the rice fields; an image that is perhaps as endearing to locals as it is to tourists. Although rice farming is a celebrated event, the job of the rice farmer is often over-glorified and represents long hours toiling under the hot sun in less than wonderful conditions for very little money.

The Thai phrase ‘kin khao’ literally means to eat rice, although it refers to eating food of any kind. When eating in Thailand, it is common to take a bite of rice first before beginning the rest of your meal as a gesture that recognizes just how important rice is. The growing cycle of rice represents the happiness, health and wealth of the nation. The success or failure of this crop is dependant on the monsoon rains and in many ways the cycle of rice cultivation governs the cycle of life in Thailand.

Nok works long and hard for very little money, as you may have gathered from last week’s article (See back issues: Talking to a restaurant worker–Part I: 05 August 2002: http://www.bangkokpost.net/kat/archives/050802a.html). My discussion with her now continues…

When asked if she is happy with her current job, to my surprise Nok replied, “Yes. It is pretty relaxing. I just want a day off sometimes! I am not always happy with my boss. He thinks I can make his business more successful than it is, but I can’t.”

When asked about her plans for the future, she responded, “I would like to get a job someday helping a chef cook. Or I would like to work for a television company doing anything they offer me. I like to write stories and songs and I keep a diary. My other idea is to become a policewoman but I would have to go back to school for that and I don’t like school at all.”

Working in an English establishment has exposed Nok to many foreigners. She is currently involved in a long-distance relationship with an Englishman who comes to see her once a year. When questioned about this relationship, she responded, “I would like to marry him because I love him and there is something special about him. I would prefer to marry a foreigner because Thai men usually have many wives. You realise that Thai men are just going to hurt your heart. This does not mean all Thai men are like this, actually all men are difficult. I want a boyfriend that can take care of my family. I want us to work together, build a house, and when we are ready, to have a baby. I hope that he will have a good job but it is not his money I want, it is his heart.”

When questioned as to whether or not she wishes to leave Thailand, she stated emphatically, “No! I don’t want to travel except maybe for a vacation. I don’t want to leave Chiang Mai, I don’t want to go to Bangkok. I like the trees, the birds and the gardens here.”

When asked about her thoughts on foreigners in Thailand, Nok explained, “I used to be so scared of farangs (foreigners) especially when I was younger. They looked funny to me and had so much hair on their bodies! I also had a difficult time learning English and used to hide my face when farangs talked to me. Now I know many people from different countries. You need time to get to know them, some are good and some are bad.”

When asked about backpackers and tourists and her opinion on how they often dress, she stated, “They wear shorts, sleeveless shirts, sport shoes, things like this. I don’t mind. How they dress is their business. If you are a good person, I will not care about your clothes but many Thai people do not like this way of dressing at all.”

When questioned about the difference between foreign and Thai mentality, she thought for a while before stating, “Foreigners talk much more directly. If they don’t like something, they say they don’t like it. Thais don’t talk straight like this.”

She sees the biggest problem facing her country as a financial one. “Everyone is very poor in Thailand. Too many people need money and not enough people have it.” When she sees a beggar on the street, she won’t give them money if they are physically able to work.; “If I have a lot of money, I give a lot of money. If I have little money, I give little money.” Nok enjoys spending time at temples and explained, “I believe in the Lord Buddha and I used to go to the temple often. Now I can’t because I am always at work.”

In her free time she enjoys listening to music, watching action or horror movies and enjoys television shows like Animal Planet. She looks a bit tired but always has the energy for a smile and a chat with her customers. “Most people that come here are nice. The only time I have a problem is when it is time to close and the customer does not want to leave the bar. Sometimes they yell,” she stated.

When asked if she is happy, Nok answered, “I don’t know. Every day I have to face a new situation.” When questioned whether or not she thinks her future will be happier, she responded, “I think it will continue to be the same. I am tired from working, but I have to do it.” After facing 105 hours of work week after week, I am indeed surprised at just how bright Nok’s smile still is.

Thailand is simply chock-full of watering holes and restaurants that fit any budget and most any food craving. I often wonder how these establishments manage to stay in business with all of the competition out there but there is no shortage of business owners thinking they can make a buck or two by opening up yet another drinking and dining establishment. It was at such a place that I recently met a 23-year-old woman I’ll call Nok. She has been working as a cook and bartender at a very small restaurant offering basic English food in Chiang Mai for the last three months.

She speaks English almost fluently and is self-taught. Her warm personality, smiling face and social nature makes her a natural at tending bar. She also enjoys helping some customers learn Thai when the restaurant is not too busy. It doesn’t seem too bad a job spending the day chatting with friendly customers, getting a free drink or two now and again and cooking up some food but nothing could be further from the truth. I asked Nok about her work schedule and she explained, “I start work around 9 or 10 a.m. everyday and close the restaurant between 2 and 3 a.m. I do not have any days off.”

What does Nok receive in return for the 105 hours per week that she works? “I am paid 4,000 baht (US$95) a month plus I’m given a room above the restaurant to sleep in. I also get tips from the customers. I usually get around 50 baht (US$1.20) a day in tips but on a good day it can be up to 200.” Averaging out her tips to 120 baht a day would mean she could earn an additional 3,600-3,720 baht per month if customers are generous. When this is added to her base salary, it means Nok can make 7,600-7,720 baht per month, or approximately 10.45 baht (US$0.25) per hour.

What does her daily schedule look like? “I get up, take a shower, get dressed, and I never eat breakfast. Next I open the business. After noon I eat, then I go upstairs and shower again. Then I work until the place closes. I have some snacks in the afternoon. After I close, I shower and go to sleep.” When asked about how she spends her money, she explained, “I spend 10 baht a day for noodles at lunch. I buy a carton of milk for 10-13 baht and spend about 20 baht on snacks. And I buy cigarettes for 35-45 baht a pack. I like to buy clothes sometimes, too. And I send my grandmother 1,000 baht a month.”

When asked what her most treasured possession is, she responded, “My clothes. If I have money, it is the first thing I will buy. Sometimes if I have something beautiful, I keep it folded and don’t even wear it.” She is likely to spend 79 baht (US$1.88) on a new shirt.

She has been taking care of herself since the age of 17 when her mother died of cancer at the age of 32. Nok completed one year of high school before beginning work as a nurse’s assistant in a hospital for 3,000 baht a month, next as a receptionist for 4,500 baht per month and later as a bartender. She met her estranged father for the first time the year her mother died but he also died shortly thereafter. She explained, “My parents both had cancer. I guess it runs in the family. I hope I don’t get it, too!”

“I have a step-sister but my family is my grandmother. She lives 95 kilometres away from here and I only get to see her about once a year. Once my grandmother dies, there is no way I am going back to my town,” Nok explained, citing a greedy aunt who used the money Nok had once entrusted her with to buy lottery tickets as the reason she would not consider going home otherwise. “I used to have some money saved but I don’t anymore. I put a deposit on a motorbike but it got repossessed because after my aunt spent my money, I could not pay for it anymore,” she stated.

When asked what she would do if hypothetically given 5,000 baht (US$119) she said, “I would keep it for when I don’t have a job and use it until I found a new one. But I also want a motorbike. Then I can come and go easily and rent a room outside of the city because the rooms are much cheaper out of town.”

To find out what Nok has to say about dating, foreigners in Thailand, her plans for the future and more, tune in next week.